Moreno Cedroni: around the world in one bite

Chantal, the brightest star in Mauro Uliassi’s sky
15/01/2019
Alessandro Procoli, the artist of mixing
12/02/2019

Visionary and avant-garde, for the “Madonnina del Pescatore” two-starred chef, every dish is a journey of emotions and taste

When you read the menu of the “Madonnina Del Pescatore“, you have the feeling of being plunged into the fantasy world of Alice in Wonderland. A mix of Mediterranean and Norwegian fish mixed with mead, Icelandic superfood, instead, are the protagonists of the Viking menu of Il Nuovo Clandestino (another restaurant owned by Moreno Cedroni, together with the Anikò) which once again recalls a book, maybe Jules Verne’s 80 days around the world? No, you just need one bite, cooked with a lot of imagination and curiosity by the most eccentric chef in Italy.

“Every dish is a journey for me that I realize, and I wish it could be so for the guest who receives it”. A journey started 34 years ago, when chef Cedroni opened the Madonnina Del Pescatore in Senigallia. W served “childhood recipes, from the Marche tradition that my grandmother and mother represented very well”. Then “countless courses and the internship with Ferran Adrià” occurred, which make the kitchen of Cedroni one of the most bizarre and successful in Italy. Other journeys follow, those of “knowledge of different ingredients and traditions: this is what is important to me in the making of a dish”.

On the first page of one of his menus, we find a memory of the trip to South Africa, which dates back to about 20 years ago: “at the Cape of Good Hope I saw where the two oceans joined, different colours that easily mixed, and I compared them to the concept of tradition and creativity that live inside me”. An eclectic and curious patron, Moreno Cedroni gives a lot of space to combined creativity and teamwork, given that “all the dishes come from a strong complicity between me and my executive chef: Luca Abbadir.

Everyone puts a piece on an idea that we like, a new technique or an ingredient that we have never used. Then of course many tests, many tastings, many satisfactions with the natural disappointments, first pancake never turns out the best! “. After the Madonnina Del Pescatore, the Nuovo Clandestino and Anikò, it is clear that fish is the basis of the chef’s cooking, but he loves to prepare meat, vegetable or dessert dishes “with the same planning and with all the techniques available”. The menu is curious, as well as the patron: Cedroni in 2018 was seduced by new ingredients of the season: the sea buckthorn, the parsnip and the creation of mead.

Eager to know what awaits you this year?

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