Companions in life and work, Moreno Cedroni and Mariella Organi boast a full-bodied wine list, congenial to pairing with the chef’s whimsical dishes.
“The wine list of La Madonnina must welcome an institutional clientele, so there is no shortage of important names. However, as I always say, it is easy to buy wines but it is much more complicated to resell them; it would therefore be useless to include too many products above a certain price ”reveals chef Moreno Cedroni.
“Obviously, let’s not forget those who have been making great wines before us, I’m talking about France. For a place overlooking the sea, with 90% of fish-based dishes, the pages of Champagne are many, certainly no more than those of the Marche wines: from the Verdicchi area, to that of Pecorini and Faleri, with excellent Bianchelli and Pinot Noirs vinified in white in the Pesaro area. However, there is no shortage of excellent reds also coming from the Conero area. Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli follow closely, together with Sicily. France is still well represented between Alsace and Burgundy up to Provence and the Moselle area, which is growing exponentially.
The food-wine combination represents a further objective: we have introduced 3 different itineraries by the glass for the three different menus, different experiences by number of labels and by the thickness of the wines, combinations that must stand out and enhance the food. My dishes, in many cases, have a combination of ingredients already in balance with each other; there are rare cases in which I have to resort to combinations with wines with extreme characteristics to achieve the goal “, says the chef from the Marches.
As a natural continuation of Cedroni’s thought, the words of Mariella Organi. A rare skill, wisely mixed with exceptional empathy, make Mariella the cornerstone of the renowned restaurant in Senigallia and ultimately the hostess of La Madonnina. We interviewed her to discover the secrets of the wine list of the two-star Michelin restaurant in the Marche region.
In a real “restaurant temple” like La Madonnina Del Pescatore, does it often happen that the customer lets himself be guided and recommended the various combinations, or does he arrive at the place with already well-defined ideas?
“Both. More and more often we are preparing for the occasion and we are happy to make the reading of our card available online. As many people are oriented towards wine pairing: in this case trust is not taken for granted, which manifests itself with curiosity but also with the certainty of having the best combination. ”
The pairing between food and wine at La Madonnina is the result of in-depth research and studies. What is the one that has given you the most satisfaction over the years?
“Surely the one that allows us to go into depth with the vintages, to observe thousandths of great personality, but also not obvious minor whites from central Italy that are particularly fragrant. Glasses that, tasted blindly, hardly anyone would recognize.
One of many “Pan brioche and sweet gorgonzola by Angelo Croce” with Niepoort Vintage Porto 2000. ”
Chef Cedroni told us about a decidedly “institutional and reassuring” wine list for what concerns the Madonnina Del Pescatore. Is there a particular label that you would hardly give up?
“I believe that each of us may have a weakness. Mine, with your eyes closed, is called Krug. ”
The role of the dining room in the restaurant is of a very high impact, perfectly complementary to that of the kitchen. In this particular historical moment, how important is the preparation and empathy that the dining room staff must convey to make the customer experience a satisfying three hundred and sixty degrees?
“The moment is new, the construction of hospitality is decidedly delicate, the working group is so decisive and incisive on the experience. My main concern is towards the guest, I try to make him feel immersed in natural comfort.
Our dining room staff is decidedly historical, close-knit, accomplice; this allows us to be very spontaneous with the guest. I believe that people who are as passionate about haute cuisine as our guests deserve an authentic sensitivity and warmth, which only people who are happy and convinced of the work they are doing can offer. Every day, if possible, we wish to feel magically lucky for the fascinating profession we carry out, for the level of attention and service that the art of Italian hospitality has achieved and of which very little is spoken. That particular work made of extreme care and interpretation of common desires, such as the search for beauty and an engaging and above all cultural experience. “
