Sine by Roberto Di Pinto: the courage to dream without fear, even in the definition of a kitchen line. The result is a concrete fact, rich in taste and emotions that has literally conquered the city
“Never say that dreams are useless, because the life of those who cannot dream is useless”. This was how Jim Morrison in the 1960s launched his cry for rebirth. And that’s how the good part of the world still goes on today. The dream is the premise of hope and the certainty of a smile. Thus, without barriers, without borders, without hesitation. Because the dream finds in the power and courage of the without, its value and strongest power. Roberto Di Pinto, born in 1982. A hand in a dream that in the courage of the without has been able (and managed) to weave life together. Thus was born Sine by Roberto Di Pinto. A restaurant, an experience, an emotion. Each step is a clear definition of these sensations. But everything is fluid, everything flows and becomes in the other. The dishes that the chef pulls out of his imagination reach that part of us that stands there waiting for vibrations. Roberto Di Pinto manages to create pathos where one would perhaps only expect ethos, soft colors and light prose. No. It’s a trap! And it feels so good to slip into it! Because as you go down, as you fall into the trap, you realize that you are sliding towards a world that belongs to a place full of shadows and happiness.
The place where the southernmost part of the chef’s heart hides and takes refuge: his Naples. A city that, allow me, owes a lot to Roberto Di Pinto: the dishes that quiver in his chest have a point of contact with the Neapolitan soul that the chef continues to fill and feed, to tell. Like the bread of him who is a peasant. Arcane, pagan and mystical, the act of baking dominates the vision of yeasts at Di Pinto’s house and simplicity becomes an encounter and homage to his Milan. That peasant bread does not supervise, but accompanies breadsticks made with polenta flour. Dipping them in butter, then, is hearing the singing of a magical sound. It is from here that the street urchin Di Pinto wants to destroy concepts and bring them to new forms, preserving a new life for them. His fried pizza is an example: it is fried yes, it is that of the people yes, but at Sine it becomes another possibility.
With Di Pinto street food meets fine dining and in this street, the fried pizzetta declares itself in Milan without shame. In the words of the chef, the revolution he has in mind is clear: “It is the revenge I wanted to give to Neapolitan street food”. Now, on the concept of a pizza (which is nothing more than a concept of life), if you had not gone to Naples to understand it, here at the Sine there is a beautiful story. Amiable, affable and practical, Di Pinto’s is black, like the night in the alleys of his city. His fried pizza is tinged with cuttlefish ink and while this spreads and fills the shapeless mass of a world in the making, his dough, without haste, makes the maximum leavening.
The frying is dry, calm and does not leave stains on the fingers, because Roberto’s fried pizza is eaten like this, with your hands. Trombetta courgette sauce at the base, bonito marinated with citrus fruits, almond flakes, confit tomatoes and slices of trumpet courgettes. All of this delicately explodes like stardust. On the concept of pizza, the chef returns with a welcome joke that becomes a raviolo: Caprese ravioli made of traditional water and flour, but which embraces a real Margherita pizza cooked in a wood oven.
After traditional cooking, the ravioli are grilled and seared with a torch to give that realistic resemblance to a real pizza. Without borders, like dreams, without horizons like courage, Oyster with Pisco Sour is the tickling perception of sand and bare feet, it is that fresh and wild Mediterranean that indulges in heretical dances. Enveloping and sensual, it lets you go to your chair in disbelief while a smile has already exploded in your eyes. Like the chef’s colors, those colors that burst into his words when he talks about his cream puff: a simple wrapper that hides and protects the holy grail of Neapolitan cuisine: “in that cream puff, there is the Genoese, there is the recipe of my mom “. In an apparent simple welcome snack, the chef manages to enclose the whole soul of the world: love and onions.