In our exclusive interview, Paolo Mastroberardino tells the vision of the Irpinia winery
Once upon a time. This is how the stories begin. Those that accompany the good night of the little ones and those that we older sew for a more intense breath of life. Because the strength of the story is right there, in its power to conquer a space of eternity in a world made of stories and deaf voices. It is in this space that the story of Terredora di Paolo is placed, a story that transmits and hands down, but, what is truly rare, it exudes emotion. In a story that has lasted for centuries, Paolo Mastroberardino has started a new story since 1994. The earth, his beloved earth, is the center of every chalice of him. The mountains of Irpinia are one of the most important basins in Europe. A basin that offers a particular climatology. A long corridor that from north to south closes those lands between the mountains; the same ones that separate them from the Adriatic on one side and from the Tyrrhenian on the other. The continental climate brings cold and snow, but returns the heat which, with its sirocco winds, dry everything. The vines, starting from these climatic peculiarities, are able to give particular aromatic sensations. To all this is added the skilful work of the cellar that does not betray, from the peel to the must, on the contrary it enhances the qualitative perspectives. The yeasts, from the indigenous to the selected ones, then go to complex these initial situations and a good stay on the lees completes the work. This is how Paolo Mastroberardino’s wines tell the gift that mother nature has granted. But it is in his immense humility, that of a great man first and then of a farsighted entrepreneur, that his voice transpires on our skin in a shiver of emotion. How and to what extent can his wines guarantee a future for Italy of wine? The question is complicated… surely each of us must remember to preserve and tell what mother nature has given us: our territory, the earth, the climate, its richness which is fundamental for the creation of a good wine. As for me, I will always be grateful because I live and work in a region kissed by the Lord, Campania which already 4000 years ago granted wine as a culture. It is clear that science has given us the prospect of higher and better quality ever since. What we intend to do is to maintain a balance and remain in terms of an equation: value for money for the consumer and quality-elegance as regards the production aspect. Not all of us think like this today because the easier choice leads most to tie themselves to the massification and globalization of markets: they produce to produce income and that’s it. Mine is a family that has spent its history over the years in the presence of research and quality. Today I have the honor of representing the eighth generation and accompanying the ninth initiate with me by his side and again we turn towards that horizon: we continue to walk the path marked by our ancestors trying to improve what has been transmitted and handed down to us. Culture is beautiful if it has continuity, tradition is something that we are able to carry on thanks also to the improvement. What do you ask of your wine? For me, wine must have characteristics of courtesy, gentleness, elegance, pleasantness, harmony and I could go on indefinitely. I would like them to give the palates the pleasure of another sip, this would mean that the product has centered on the emotion of our mental gratification mechanism. And then it happens that his wine also hits the spot on the technical palates of tasters … Surely this is not an easy thing to manage but it is the best we can hope for. But from the bottom of my experience of my 42 years of work, I know that there is still a lot to work on and improve on. And what does the great Paolo Mastroberardino need to improve on? I believe there is still a lot to do. So much so that on all our productions for some years we have developed a system that works on the ripening curves of the grapes. We observe the grapes starting from August 20, a period in which veraison generally begins when the grapes are ripe. With a periodic interval of 7-10 days we repeat the analyzes on the grapes, grapes that are sampled per parcel that does not exceed three hectares and homogeneously represent the whole parcel. When the elements between the ripening curve are in equilibrium with each other, the harvest begins. This allows us to bring perfect and balanced grapes to the cellar that give the best of themselves and helps us to obtain unique and typical characters that our products offer. Terredora di Paolo is the certainty that another wine is possible, looking back but with the wind in the stern and with the heart always forward. Italy and the New World: proposals unconventional Ten proposals to enhance wines with unique and unexpected characteristics Thanks to the idyllic scenarios that usually frame the cellars and the growing interest of the Italian population in wine, wine tourism is increasingly appreciated and widespread. Whether you have only a weekend available, or if you choose this particular formula to spend your weeks of vacation, the destinations to choose from are many and satisfy every need. We reviewed those that for us are among the most beautiful and least known, ranging from Italy, Europe and overseas countries. The result is a range of splendid destinations, embellished with fantastic wines. Sweet, dry, still, wavy … there is something for everyone. All that remains is to choose the destination and pack! The Castles of Jesi and Verdicchio Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore ‘Castelfiora’ 2020 Tombolini Area: Marche; Grapes: 100% Verdicchio; Color: Straw yellow with golden reflections; Alcoholic Content: 14%; On the nose: Hawthorn, mint, white melon; On the palate: Fresh, savory, long and structured; A pairing dish: Brodetto Marche; We recommend it: To get lost among the ancient villages that dominate the hills of Vallesina. The Euganean Hills and Moscato Giallo Fior d’Arancio Yellow Muscat Classic Method ‘Dilà’ 2016 Maeli Area: Veneto; Grapes: 100% Moscato Giallo; Color: Golden yellow; Alcoholic Content: 12%; On the nose: Magnolia, thyme and bread crust; On the palate: Fresh, savory, elegantly bitter at the end and lively perlage; A pairing dish: Creamed cod; We recommend it: To discover the places of Petrarch and enjoy a moment of relaxation at the spa. Molise and Tintilia Tintilia del Molise Dop ‘Macchiarossa’ 2015 Claudio Cipressi Area: Molise; Grapes: 100% Tintilia; Color: Ruby red; Alcoholic Content: 14.5%; On the nose: currant, dates, violet, nutmeg; On the palate: Silky and enveloping, supported by a nice freshness; A pairing dish: Stewed mutton alla baraccara; We recommend it: For its bucolic landscapes and the wild atmosphere that you breathe there. Napa Valley and its most iconic wine ‘Opus One’ 2018 Opus One Winery Area: California; Grapes: 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec; Color: Ruby red; Alcoholic Content: 14%; On the nose: currant, blueberries, red rose, licorice, cocoa; On the palate: Velvet tannins, freshness, great persistence; A pairing dish: Brisket bbq; We recommend it: For an immersive experience in the world of wine in what almost looks like an “amusement park”. The Central Valley and the Carmenère Grand Selection ‘Carmenère 2019’ Lapostolle Area: Chile; Grapes: 91% Carmenère, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc; Color: Ruby red with violet reflections; Alcoholic Content: 14%; On the nose: Berries, cinnamon, wild mint; On the palate: Structured and intense, with a long persistence; A pairing dish: Parillada; We recommend it: For uncontaminated and vast landscapes, totally different from ours. Marlborough and Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon ‘Te Koko’ 2019 Cloudy Bay Zone: New Zealand; Grapes: 100% Sauvignon Blanc; Color: Straw yellow with golden reflections; Alcoholic Content: 13%; On the nose: Passion fruit, green apple, beeswax; On the palate: Round, fresh, with good structure; A pairing dish: Pork & Puha; We recommend it: For the incredible contrasts between the vineyards and the sea. Greek Macedonia and Retsina Retsina “Tear of the pine” 2018 Kechris Area: Greece; Grapes: 100% Assyrtiko; Color: Intense straw yellow; Alcohol content: 13.5%; Nose: Lemon peel, iodized notes, pine resin, rosemary; On the palate: A full-bodied, fresh and savory wine; A pairing dish: Grilled octopus; We recommend it: For the territory very rich in terms of history, culture and breathtaking landscapes. Alsace and the Gewurztraminer Gewurztraminer Grand Cru ‘Hengst’ 2017 Zind Humbrecht Area: France; Grapes: 100% Gewurztraminer; Color: Golden yellow; Alcohol content: 12.5%; On the nose: gingerbread, white pepper, honey; On the palate: Sweet, silky, of great softness and complexity; A pairing dish: Alsacienne Choucroute; We recommend it: For the romantic atmosphere that you can feel while walking among the ancient colorful houses. The Moselle and the Riesling Riesling Mosel Spatlese ‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr’ 2019 J.J. Prum Area: Germany; Grapes: 100% Rhine Riesling; Color: Golden yellow; Alcohol content: 8.5%; On the nose: Green apple, nutmeg, hydrocarbons; On the palate: Great roundness and freshness with pleasant mineral hints; A pairing dish: Baked ham; We recommend it: For the poetry of the vineyards overlooking the river. Tokaj-Hegyalja and Tokaji Aszù Tokaji Aszù Essencia 2008 Royal Tokaji Area: Tokaj, Hungary; Grapes : Furmint, Hárslevelű, Yellow Muscat; Color: Amber yellow with orange reflections; Alcoholic Content: 4%; On the nose: Caramelized orange peel, honey, apricot, saffron, ginger; On the palate: Very sweet, with an almost solid consistency, but rebalanced by a great acidity; A pairing dish: Platter of aged cheeses; We recommend it: For the uniqueness of the underground cellars and the absolute beauty of the landscapes.